Arrow Building – Aniline Dye

Aniline dyes are different from pigmented stains. Pigmented stains are tiny flakes of color suspended in a solvent, which can settle thickly to the bottom of a container. The aniline dyes dissolve, becoming part of the solution. This dye solution penetrates the wood deeply, rather than sitting on the surface. No additional arrow weight! No added arrow shaft diameter, as with a paint or lacquer!

Mixing: with the versatile and easy-to-dilute-with-water dyes, you control the density (depth) of the color by how much dye to hot water is used. Colors mix well, and you only mix what you need at the time. We suggest using a small, resealable container (such as a baby food jar, etc). Using hot (not boiling) tap water, add a small amount of powder dye, checking your depth of color on an old unfinished shaft. Until you get the shade of color you desire. Custom colors can be obtained by mixing various dyes.

Application: After straightening and sanding shaft with 180 to 200 grit sandpaper, wipe shaft with a damp cloth to remove sanding residue. Using a dobber or any soft cloth, apply dye/water solution to shaft. After depth of color is acquired, allow shaft to dry 6 to 8 hours. Amount of humidity in your area will determine drying time. When shaft is properly dried, remove any raised grain whiskers with 0000 steel wool.

Sealing: With ProDipper properly fill with Quik-Dry Lacquer Sealer (approximately 1″ from top), attach special cap/gasket. We recommend first cutting nock taper on full length shaft. Insert nock tapered end through hole in gasket, push shaft into ProDipper until the length of coverage is obtained (approximately 1” longer than completed arrow). Withdraw shaft from ProDipper with a slow, steady non-stop motion, and set shaft aside. Sealer works best when the material is at a temperature of 75 to 80 degrees. When using the Quik-Dry Lacquer Sealer, if a 20-second withdrawal rate causes to material to overflow excessively through the vent holes in the gasket, the material is not warm enough. Another indicator of too cold material is when you insert the second shaft into the material, you feel less resistance than when you did the first shaft. This indicates the material is too thick (cold) and a cavity was created by the prior shaft being withdrawn. When this happens, if it is not possible to warm the material more, then allow extra time for the material to resettle before dipping other shafts. Continue to dip rest of shafts, and when final shaft has been dipped, the first shaft is ready for a second coat, repeating above instructions. Normally 3 to 5 coats, depending on humidity. (The higher the humidity, the more coats required). Total number of coats is matter of personal preference. When dipping is complete, immediately remove special cap/gasket and set aside to dry. Install solid, sealing cap and tighten securely. Do NOT over-tighten, for it is possible to strip the plastic threads on the ProDipper. After sealer residue on gasket has dried, just peel it off. It is not necessary to clean rubber gasket with any type of solvent.

Special Note: The Quik-Dry lacquer sealer is a very thick material, and is best used without thinning if the sealer’s temperature is approximately 75 to 80 degrees. If thinning is necessary, use ½ pint of acetone to full ProDipper. Quik-Dry lacquer sealer can be used over Bohning cap dip lacquers. It can be crested with Bohning cresting paint or automotive touch-up lacquers. If a scuff coat over cresting is desired, give ample drying time prior to the final coat of Quik-Dry. The type of cresting paint will determine the length of drying time before applying final coat of Quik-Dry, usually about 10 hours. NOTE: If using paints/lacquers other than those we have tested, used, and then listed, experimentation by the arrow maker may be necessary.

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